The Sharkstooth: Northeast Ridge
After the weather for the past few weekends had been very uncooperative, acting like it would rain but not, or being forecast for clear sky’s then raining I decided that I would have to take the chance of a 20% showers and do some alpine climbing. And after talking it over with one of my climbing partners we decided that a Saturday attempt at the Sharkstooth via the Northeast ridge was necessary.
As I peeled myself out of bed at 1:30 in the morning and choked down some chocolate cake, a favorite breakfast item of mine on alpine starts, I dragged myself to the car for the drive to Glacier Gorge to meet my buddy coming down from Fort Collins. As I made my way out of Boulder I felt a little loony in my grogginess, as cars came towards me I felt like a bug being sucked into one of those bug zappers not having a choice but to continue driving towards the light. But somewhere around Lyons I think I finally woke up and realized that there was not a cloud in the sky.
As I pulled into RMNP and made my way up to the parking lot I was extremely excited because there was a full moon lighting my way up the road, but naturally right as I pulled in and saw a shooting star go whizzing by out my window a group of clouds came over Flattop and Halletts and completely engulfed the moon, it got really dark really fast.
After sorting gear and ropes we were on the trail by 3:30. Winding our way down into the canyon towards the short cut we could see the lights of a group heading to The Spearhead and the Petit in front of us. But soon it just became the woods and us and the next 2.5 miles to the Loch was just one quite step after another of awesome morning mountain air.
By the time we reached the turn off to Andrews Glacier we were both awake and charging at a pretty good pace. But once we reached tree line up near the start of the gash we realized that we were completely in a cloud. Instead of trying to find our way through the boulder field in the fog we decided that it would be best to take a break in the trees and see what the weather would do.
At around 5:15 or so just as we could see Zowie peak through the clouds a group of climbers passed by us not even noticing us in our warm tree camp. We decided that we did not want to give our spot in line up for this climb and we had hope that with the warming sun the clouds would be broken up and possibly give us a chance for a climb, or at the least we would be able to see Sharkstooth and a great sunrise.
We made our way up through the gash still in fog and clouds not actually being able to see any of the Spires until we were nearly on them. But then just like clock work the clouds lifted and we knew we were in for a great day of climbing.
After our slow approach we finally got on the 1st pitch around 8:30. Route finding was relatively easy and the climbing was good 5.6 moves. The second pitch went up a crack and over a small little roof; this was definitely my favorite move of the climb although each pitch had a fun spot or two. From the second belay ledge we had to take a moment to orient ourselves and debated going right around the corner and then up or continuing straight up the slab. We decided to continue straight up which was a good choice it allowed for easy moves and good gear placement. Pitch 3-4 were very similar slab climbing that took you to a large belay ledge at the base of an off-width. Climbing the off-width was actually very easy and you other than the first few moves to get off the belay ledge you hardly had to climb in the crack, as there was great face holds. Above the crack you come to a really airy traverse that lets you get a sense of the exposure. The last belay ledge was just above this and from here it was just a run out scramble to the true summit where the views were amazing of the entire Glacier Gorge area and Longs Peak as well as the Mummy’s and the Estes valley.
The rappel is off the South East of the top and is made of old pitons and new slings. Two ropes were necessary to make it completely from one anchor to the next and it is 3 raps to reach the gully between The Saber and Sharkstooth and from here just a small scramble back down to the start of the climb.
After gathering our stashed gear we made our way back down through the gash, which felt like it would never end. From here the trail back out to the Loch and then to the parking lot was a happy sight.
We got back to the parking lot at 6:15 making it a great 15-hour day of classic climbing.
Overall this was a great alpine route with really fun mellow climbing and it allowed for spectacular views throughout all of it. Also I would say that we could have easily knocked off an hour or two if we did not have to wait to see what the weather would do and I did not lead one of the pitches as slow as I did.
Cheers!
